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Addendum

2008-09-10T10:57:00.000-07:00

On August 25, the last day of our ride, Paul Lacaillade, Jon's son, was killed in a tragic bike accident. I had the privilege of riding with Jon for nine weeks, meeting and riding with Heidi and Mercedes (Jon's daughter and granddaughter) on August 24 and 25, meeting Paul's entire family the evening of August 24, and riding with Paul shortly before the accident. The purpose of this post is to share some of Paul's comments from our August 25 conversation. I hope my remembrances offers comfort to Jon's family and to our BAA "family."

On the morning of August 25, I was riding alone when Paul came charging up to me with a great big smile on his face. Paul had been working hard in his business plus getting the Moultonborough house ready for our stay. The entire Lacaillade family was stoked about accompanying Jon as we finished our cross-USA ride. Paul loved being on his bike on such a prefect morning.

We discussed growing up with Jon. Reflecting a prior conversation with Heidi, Paul said that Jon was a great Dad with two rules:
1) No drugs, and 2) Don't get caught. He said Jon was a great father, despite working 7 days a week.

We discussed the previous days ride with Heidi and Mercedes. While Heidi and Mercedes had not ridden more than 40 miles in a single ride, they both rode 80+ miles without a thought of quitting. In fact Mercedes, reflecting athletic ability similar to Paul, never seemed to be challenged. Oh, to be 15 and have talent.

Paul talked about his son Andrew's bike trainer workouts, guided by Chris Carmichael training tapes. Paul couldn't have been prouder of Andrew, and from my observation on Monday evening, Andrew worshiped his father.

Paul talked about returning to bike racing. He said that he was trying to get Jon to join him and Andrew in an upcoming race. He wanted to complete a sweep of having 5 generations of bike racers in the family.

Paul talked about his grandfather, who was the United States national track bike racing champion. Paul proudly possessed his grandfather's race bike.

Then Jon caught us, and we all rode together. After a few miles, I dropped back a few yards, leaving Jon and Paul to ride together, as this portion of highway had a broad shoulder. Then, despite our riding at about an 18 mph pace, Paul wanted to join his sister and niece, Heidi and Mercedes. Paul was such a powerful and skilled rider, he rapidly accelerated away from us. I always find it exhilarating to watch a strong rider like Paul riding with such joy.

A few miles later, Jon and I stopped with Bill Fortune and Jim Conboy to take photos at the NH/ME state line. Shortly after entering Maine, Heidi called Jon, asking where we were. We were perhaps two miles behind. Just a minute or two later, Heidi called again and told Jon that, "Paul was in an accident." We both accelerated, passed the tail-back of cars, and came upon the accident. No words or actions were or are sufficient. My deepest, heart-felt sympathies go out to the Lacaillade family.

We all must work through our grief as best we can. I plan to remember Paul as the bright, happy, optimistic, joyful father, husband, son, brother, uncle, and cyclist that I knew. As I experience the joy of a ride, I'd like to send a little of it Paul's way.

Here is Paul's obituary
Paul Lacaillade, 38, of Meredith, NH, passed away Aug. 25, 2008, from injuries sustained in an accident. Born to Kim (Tatro) and Jon Lacaillade on Oct. 19, 1969, Paul was raised in Meredith and attended Meredith Schools.

Paul was an avid bicyclist who won first place at the 13th annual Mount Washington Hill Climb Bicycle Race (Junior Division) at age 15 in 1985. Despite missing the start of the race by two minutes, Paul was able to capture first place with a time of 1 hour 14 minutes and 51 seconds. The course was a grueling eight-mile climb to the top of the summit where temperatures ranged from 70 degrees to a crisp 31 degrees with snow flurries at the summit.

Paul was a proud Marine who served in Desert Storm with honor and valor.

In 2004 Paul started a contracting business, Andrew Taylor Homes of Meredith (named for his two children). Paul was a skilled builder of beautiful homes and furniture.

Paul is predeceased by his sister Gretchen Lacaillade.

Paul is survived by his wife Michele (Franks); and two children, Taylor Nicole and Andrew Harrison; his mother Kim and her husband Ernest Gregoire; his father Jon Paul Lacaillade I; a sister, Heidi Placy; a stepbrother, Daryl Gove and stepsister, Sarah Gove; and a niece, Mercedes Kuzina.

August 31 "Welcome Home" Wine and Cheese

2008-09-01T10:10:00.000-07:00

Since returning to Bozeman, I've been on two shopping rides and two road rides totaling less than 50 miles. As I write this post on September 1, the temperature is in the low 40's F and it is raining. I think all of us will need 2-4 weeks before the old snap is back in the legs.

I began this blog with a few photos from a Bike Across America Send-off party, so I'll close with the "Welcome Back" Wine and Cheese party. Thank you to everyone who could come and to all of you who supported Nancy while I was riding across the USA. Perhaps I'll post further thoughts when I sort them out.

Here are some of the guests:

Edis, Nancy, and Lenore

Beverly and Tim

Rich and Caleigh (foreground); KC, Edis, and Lenore (background)

Adam, Jen, and Beverly (must be a cookbook)

Edis

Gavin

Fred

And of course the Dogs of the Day are Eli and KC:

Eli

KC (Killer Cottonball)

My cycling friend from Slovenia, Martin Bertoncelj, sent me this cycling jersey. It's the Slovenian National Team Jersey. I would have been proudly wearing it on this x-USA journey, but the original one was too small. While I did lose 5 pounds on the trip, I still couldn't get into the original jersey. All the same, here it is, with Eli and KC. One 40-mile ride about the Gallatin Valley later, this one fits perfectly. Thanks, Martin.

An Observation on Drivers in America (and the Ass of the Trip)
In 4000 miles, we only encountered one driver who yelled at us to "Get off the road." They seemed to be treating it mostly as a joke. Then on a short ride in Bozeman, the driver of a small Ford pick-up, surpassed all others. I was riding on our Main Street, a 4-lane street, 25-mph speed limit, with a parking, break-down, or bike lane on the right, except where it disappears. Concerned for my safety, he drove up behind me and commenced honking, and shouting "Get off the road!" I waved him around, as he could easily pass in the left lane. I had to take the center of the right lane, as the parking lane disappears in front of Bozeman High School. He gunned his powerful Ford Ranger, passed me, pulled in front, (all the time yelling and gesturing), and almost immediately had to stop for a traffic light. He then exited his truck, and came back to veomently inform me that I needed to Get off the road" and repeatedly said, "You'll be killed." When I noted that I had an equal right to the road, he kept yelling, "But you'll be dead." Where are the police when you need them. At this point, the entire street was empty, the light having changed, so I rode off a left him blubbering and fuming in the street. Not a pleasant encounter.

After 4000 miles, the biggest ass was in Bozeman, a town that prides itself as being one of the "Last Best Places" to live. Yep, "Ass of the Trip."

When I'm not riding bikes
As a side note, my podcasts are now on iTunes. Go to the iTunes store and search for "proposal guide." You should get this screen:

This is the album cover:

Here are several links to my book, the "Proposal Guide:"

http://books.google.com/books?id=LgGcVjIMur8C&dq=proposal+guide&pg=PP1&ots=PbQFbnaSkx&source=citation&sig=kBbPwE1D1v2aL9KSiUiBmM2MkOU&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=13&ct=result#PPA20,M1
http://www.shipleywins.com/products-item.php?item=3

August 25 Moultonborough, NH, to Portland, ME 85 miles

2008-08-29T19:36:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2071

We had about 20 miles from Moultonborough to the Maine border. Me at the State line:

Jon L at the State line:

Our lawyers at the State line (Bill F and Jim "Rocket Man" C):

We regrouped to meet our guide into Portland in Bristol on the town green.

Just in case my Bike Friday couldn't make the last day, here is an antique alternate.

Maine has an equal number of antique vendors. As noted in the shop in South Dakota, "This junk is for sale."

This is Ken from the Portland bike club, who took the day off to guide us into Portland via the back streets.

Either he was a lot stronger rider or we were too used to a touring pace after 4000 miles. This is a typical view, Ken leading, us trying to keep him in sight.

Approaching Portland, ME:

The bridge into Portland:

Along the Bay:

A long-established restaurant:

Portland also has murals:

And a narrow-gauage railroad:

A final discussion—"Do we follow this Ken guy? Marlene asks for a vote.

Better late than never, Portland has a bike trail. Jim C, Ken, Earl, and Solomon:

Yes, that's the Atlantic.

I'm no fool. Like Earl, I'm following Nancy, the woman with a built-in compass, and a GPS for backup guidance.

Now what? Why did we do this? Where am I? Anyone have a beer?

Well, you can't get everyone to look at the camera at the same time, especially when you have 12 cameras. From the left, Bill F, Jim C, Bill F, Tim, Marlene, Ken, Jim C, Larry, Dot, Nancy P, Earl, and Solomon.

Post group photo, but not yet ready to leave the scene. We've been aiming for this since leaving Seattle on June 21.

One last look at the Atlantic Ocean:

Now what? Milling about the sag.

One good milling warrants another:

Anyone know how to get to our hotel?

Back across the bridge:

Goodbye to the Bay:

Dot:

Bill F and Jim C:

Solomon:

Nancy and Earl P:

Bill R:

Marlene:

Jim C:

When we leave our families for 9 weeks, a lot can happen. In my case, Nancy sold my truck, nearly sold the pickup camper, finished re-shingling the roof (OK, a contractor completed the job), survived a hail storm with golf-ball-sized hail stones, and hosted visits from family and friends. In the case of Solomon, Elaine got a puppy, our official, arrival-day Dog-of-the-Day. This is Roobie Baby, and Solomon swears he will not walk of feed this Aussie (unless it learns to write code).

Those of us staying at the HoJo's went our for an evening meal. A wonderful touch, Marlene's children sent her a "Congratulations Mom" chocolate cake, from Portland's finest bakery.

August 24 Sharon, VT, to Moultonborough, NH 84 miles

2008-08-29T15:15:00.001-07:00

Total miles 3986

After a great night in Sharon, we're preparing our bikes in Ken's garage. That's Nancy P, Earl, Bill F, Jim C, and Ken.

Jon L's granddaughter, Mercedes, Jon, and Heidi, Jon's daughter, are riding with us today. We have all been looking forward to this, finding out what Jon was REALLY like.

Heidi and Mercedes are ready, wondering: "What is taking these geezers so long to get ready. After all, they have been doing this for nearly 9 weeks."

Here Mercedes is following Nancy P up a hill. At the top, Nancy ordered: "Start breathing. You're not even breathing!" To be 15 again. And a little athletic talent doesn't hurt, either.

We crossed the Connetticut River, and seemed to be following the route of a bike trail. Like many, it's along a highway.

Typical terrain:

Lake Winnipisaki:

A Civil War mortar:

Halloween—this home in NH is prepared. I'm going to designate this as Dog-of-the-Day as well.

Jon hosted the group at his restored 250-year old house just outside Moultonborough. The house was slated for demolition, but the owner couldn't get the demo permit. Jon stepped in, bought the house, and completed extensive restoration with his son, Paul. We usually put up a clothes line to dry hand-washed clothes. Jon insisted we place it on the front porch---good for the neighborhood.

Solomon in the kitchen:

Typical original wood beams, part of the post-and-timber construction.

Staircase to the second floor and attic:

While sitting on the side porch, a black bear wandered across the road and into the woods. I was lucky to have my camera available. We have black bears and grizzlies in Montana, but I never see them; we just hear that each Fall they are cruising the fruit trees for pre-hibernation food.

We walked 1/2 mile down the road for dinner. At our table, Bill R, Dot, Jim C, Bill F, Jim C, Ken, Solomon, and Larry.

August 23 Middlebury to Sharon, VT 61 miles

2008-08-29T06:39:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3902

This part of Vermont seems to have plenty of farm stands, either reflecting an abundance of produce and crafts or the difficulty of making ends meet.

A few miles south of Middlebury, our banker, Jim C, discovered another type of bank . . .

. . . with black-and-white depositors.

Going ape over a WV Beetle

Typical terrain, riding with Nancy and Earl P.

This was the major climb of the day, about 5 miles in total. We had to change the route due to heavy rains and a bridge wash-out the prior week.

As I noted before, while the altitude is unimpressive, Eastern climbs start near sea level, and they tend to tilt up at the end. One theory is that as the road builders run out of money, they shorten the road and increase the grade. This pattern of cracks can swallow a narrow bike tire.

Near the top of the Gap

Unlike the West, where mountain views are unobstructed, this is one of the few times where we can see the terrain outside the "tree tunnel."

Being relatively near the start of the day, we all grouped for lunch at the top and posed for another group shot.

Dog-of-the-Day is Socrates, a Newfoundland, who seems to command his own pick-up in South Royalton.

South Royalton town square. This is a town that was saved by a law school. (Yep, located in this small town.)

Ken and Nancy Wright, our BAA organizers, are hosting our stay at their B & B in Sharon, VT. Here we have Bill F, Mike, Cindi, and Solomon discussing matters of great importance in the kitchen. I think Solomon that he is already dressed for dinner.

Here's Jon's daughter's family. From left, Mark (Heidi's husband), Heidi (Jon's daughter), Mercedes (Heidi's daughter, Jon's granddaughter, and the best golfer on her school's boys golf team), and Jon (proud father and grandfather, with good reason). I've never looked as good as any of these people, on my best day!

Nancy W, finally home in her own kitchen, fixing a killer chicken curry for our group dinner.

Here are the feet of our three advocates for biking sock-less, in sandals. Left-to-right is Nancy W, Marlene, and Bill R.

The Wright's B & B is beautifully located on a rise. Ken built the first portion in 1980, then added the second portion in 1990. The framing lumber was logged from the property and milled on-site in a saw mill built by Ken's father.

August 22 Silver Bay, NY, to Middlebury, VT 39 miles

2008-08-23T04:03:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3841

Due to the short mileage, we all left later than usual. We headed north on the shore of Lake George, past impressive summer homes, to Tikonderoka. This was a particularly beautiful weather vane.

I rode most of the way with Solomon. This is typical terrain north of Lake George.

Having little patience for 2 hours of a guided tour, we visited the Fort but skipped the tour.

Instead, we went into Tikonderoka. Solomon will go anywhere in pursuit of a good photo:

In Tikonderoka, Solomon spied the Hacker Boat Works.

Solomon and our guide:

Various Hackercraft, both lold and new. One is Donald Sutherland's boat.

Then on to the ferry to Vermont. Here is our intrepid ferry captain, carefully focusing on his work:

This ferry actually travels along submerged cables. The tug just pushes the ferry as it rolls along the cables. Hence, no steering is required.

The ferry sells apples, 50 cents each. While touted as "the best apples that you will ever eat," they were pretty average.

Landing in Vermont:

Solomon and I could identify with this quote, relating to our conversations with people along our route.

So we figure out where we are . . .

. . . take the obligatory state border sign photo , , ,

. . . and ride on.

The ride into Middlebury was pretty, but the road was voted the worst of the trip. It had all the elements---poor, rutted surface; no shoulder; speeding drivers; and speeding milk trucks that made Western log truck drivers look courteous. Oh, and the road was a continuous series of sharp ups and downs, forcing cyclists to dodge cracks and holes, and weave over the entire width of the road when traffic permitted.

This route was nominated as a bike route . . .

. . . but not maintained. unfortunately, this is a pretty common problem in the US.

This farm had a mural on the barn and interesting twin, out-buildings:

Typical, rolling terrain:

Here Solomon conquers another steep Vermont hill:

Long wait, but Elmo is the Dog of the Day. (I don't know if Elmo is a dog, so just go along with it.)

Middlebury College Arts Center

School mascot

Stadium entrance and press box

Lodging was at the Middlebury Inn, conveniently at the top of the green. Upon arrival, the sag was still out, so I walked about the compact, beautiful downtown area. Then check-in, showers, and off to visit the Otter Creek Brewery with Bill F and Bill R. These fellow visitors understand the Guinness slogan: "Beer is good."

Where is the nipple?

Anticipating our two final evenings in Sharon and Moultonborough, we made the executive decision to buy two cases, but lacked transport, having ridden our bikes 2 miles to the brewery. Saved by the kindness of strangers, these fine folks opened a delivery service. That's me on the left and Bill R (Portland Bill) on the right.

We had a final dinner at Fire & Ice Restaurant, as the traditional end of this ride was to be Sharon. Here's the group . . .

Nice to have John and Cindy rejoin us for this celebratory dinner.

. . . and here's Jon, again avoiding dessert.

Mike and Nancy—this was Mike's last evening with us.

Earl and Nancy P

Saturday's ride is over a modified route, as part of the planned route was washed out by rain last week, a reminder that we continue to be incredibly lucky with weather. Sharon, VT, is the end of the ride for Mike and Nancy W. About 10 of us will go on to the Atlantic Ocean, finishing in Portland, ME.

August 21 Indian Lake to Silver Bay, NY 70 miles

2008-08-23T03:49:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3802

Let's start with the Dog of the Day. Tough call. Here are two candidates:

I pick the 2ND one; who can resist this puppy. His "handler" says that he is a real trouble maker.

Perhaps our 2ND most beautiful ride after Glacier, MT. We rode rolling hills down to the upper Hudson River, mile 42 from the source. Here is Jim C, aka "Rocket Man":

. . .and Bill F, our most persuasive rider, at mile 42 of the Hudson.

We saw a lot of small river towns that were originally associated with logging and the practice of floating logs down the Hudson River. The last log float was in 1950.

Where is Edith Ann?

(Advertising locally made Adirondack furniture.)

This is North Creek, NY . . .

. . . but it had a working rail road, getting ready to haul tourists, now that logs are hauled mostly by trucks.

Mating rail cars?

In Chesterton, I took the business route, past a huge chicken

. . . and the shift from Route 9 to 8 was not obvious. So I asked a cyclist which way to go. (Yes, a man asked for directions.) Nearly 6 mile later, I figured I had gone the wrong way when Brandt Lake didn't "appear on the left." So I got a few extra miles (about 12) with the goof and village explorations.

Lake Brandt did appear, a long, thin lake lined with cabins on all sides.

Then it was a typical New England, Adirondack climb, over Graphite Mountain (where graphite was once mined for all those #2 pencils we used on tests). Unlike the West, where the grade tends to be constant, these climbs tend to start steadily, then progressively bite.

The total climb was 4 or 5 miles. Initially I'm going 11 mph, then 9, then 7---wondering if this next "view area" is the top, where we had a planned lunch stop.

We had the lunch stop at the top, then were warned about elephants on the descent:

We had a great, 4 mile descent to Lake George, past the elephant. Our overnight was at a YMCA Conference Center, where Jim C and I went sailing. I haven't sailed since I sold my Hobie years ago.

The YMCA often trains their personnel at this conference center, as well as renting to other groups for meetings and conferences. We had a great time meeting the Finks, who managed this conference center, and who are avid cyclists. Several of us went over to their house to check out two recumbents, and two Bike Fridays. Then many of us enjoyed a musical show put on by YMCA volunteers, who donate their time at this conference center.

August 20 Old Forge to Indian Lake, NY 52 miles

2008-08-20T10:33:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3732

We're getting close to the end and the mood is definitely changing. Five more days to ride to the coast.

Let's start with the Dog of the Day, a black German Shepherd in Old Forge, wlaking just outside our motel.

This red-neck, pickup-truck-driving tandem was NOT selected as Dogs of the Day—too hostile to cyclists.

This morning it was 40 F, pretty cool. We had breakfast at 8 am, then people began riding between 8:30 and 9:00 am. Our peak temperature was supposed to be in the mid-60s. I stopped in all the small villages, but still found little reason to linger. We had sharply rolling hills, but most hills were not that long. Steady riding was warmer---dawdling was too chilly. Fog was rising from the lakes.

Racket Lake was a typical stop. This tiny place had a lot going for it. The town library, complete with a bear statue. (Perhaps the bear was just waiting for the library to open—needed to check e-mail.

This cabbose was the gift shop, opposite the tour boat dock.

Today's ride was along a string of lakes in Adirondack State Park.

The Park is the largest state park in the US, but it contains numerous private holdings. The entire area is covered with trees, so it is difficult to see the overall lay of the land---just the immediate forest beside the road and views through trees to the lakes.

Jim C says that this entire forest is 2ND growth. Cabins tend to be called "camps." We also discussed the difference between a lake and a pond. Is it size, depth, or how it's fed? Comments are welcome if you know.

Yet this is a progressive area. Even the beavers have satellite access:

This one is for the Burke clan, mostly in Bozeman. Here, they had a boat launch, gas station, and bait shop.

Across the road was Jen's Cafe.

Indian Lake had this carving outside a public building.

August 19 Rome to Old Forge, NY 50 miles

2008-08-19T12:36:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 3680

We had thunderstorms and rain last night and a cloudy, cool start with a head wind from the north. Ken and Nancy said this leg would include the steepest climbs of the trip, and that one-half of the riders in previous groups walked these hills.

Good for our group. On one walked any of the hills.

Let's start with the Dog of the Day, a Beagle puppy. (Nancy did correct me, originally called a Basset. Just my best guess.)

This is a different kind of half-way house. It's available with a fresh paint job.

I took this while riding up one of the steep climbs, and then turned and shot Jim C following me up the climb. Jim C and I rode together through the hills to the finish. I really enjoy climbing, and it was nice to get back to some hills. Everyone in the group is a lot stronger after riding for 8 weeks.

Being particularly proud of his original riding lawn mower, this man (a woman wouldn't do this) mounted it on the roof.

Jim C, the pilot, particularly enjoyed this "plane-in-the-roof" shot.

We started in late Spring. This "bookend" shot shows Fall returning to New England. Jim tells me this is a Swamp Maple.

Small town just before Old Forge:

I had to fight this bear in Old Forge for a beer. I told him about Montana grizzlies, and he was willing to share.

August 18 Jordan to Rome, NY 69 miles

2008-08-19T11:56:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3630

We had an easy ride today, with fairly flat roads, decent surfaces, except for the broken glass, and nice views. We were near the Erie Canal, but not on the tow path. These are views of the canal early in the route.

Three versions of the Erie Canal were built. The 2nd and 3rd versions were to widen and deepen the Canal to carry larger barges and to adapt to steam-powered tugs versus the mules on the tow path. After switching to steam power, the tow path became much less important. Eventually, rails were laid near the canal, and rails hauled the freight instead of canal boats.

When the Erie Canal was finished, stone masons were out of work. They initiated a local style of building using small, polished river stones to finish the walls instead of brick. This is an example. Few of these buildings remain—I only saw two.

We planned to stop at the "Erie Canal Village," but it was closed. At $25 admission, we probably would have skipped it anyway. This is the Erie Canal Village barge (short barge rides are part of the admission) and a typical bridge spanning the Canal . . .

. . . the narrow-gage train and station across from the village . . .

. . . and Jon and Earl on the tow path. This is the earlier, narrow version of the Canal.

We stayed at a Baptist Church Camp on the north side of Rome, NY. We all were in this house---bunk beds in every room.

They used this pavilion, like a Chautauqua structure, for revival meetings.

The camp was on a lake. Here are the swimming rules. Note #6. Nancy P asked: "So which piece should I wear? My answer: "Which ever piece that Earl (her husband) selects."

Solomon has a "Horse of the Day." Nancy P has a "Hay of the Day," Sso here is my "Dog(s) of the Day." I have had the guys marking territory for Eli . This first shot was early in today's ride. The black Cockapoo was with her owner at the Baptist Camp. I asked her to "Sit," but the owner laughed. So much for obedience training. Solomon's new dog, an Aussie, and really Elaine's dog, will be a sure Dog of the Day when visiting in Sharon, VT.

Aug 17 Palmyra to Jordan, NY 53 miles

2008-08-17T11:27:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3561

With a fairly short distance today, I slept in until nearly 7 am, showered, dressed, packed, and had breakfast. My front tire has been losing a little more air each morning. Today, it was really down, so Jon and I found and fixed the hole, a likely glass cut. Perhaps the biggest tire hazard for cyclists is broken glass along the road. Bottle-deposit laws really do help, but people still throw out the empties.

A tip I learned from Jon, who had ZERO flats, was to inspect your tires each evening for bits of glass embedded in the tire. Turn the bike over, ideally in strong sunlight, slowly rotate the wheel, both looking and feeling for bits of glass. Glass shows up pretty well in the light, and then pick out the bits of glass. I found that small tire cuts often had a bit of glass at the bottom of the cut. While the tire had not flatted, the rolling motion of the tire moves the glass along the tire, opening a larger cut, until it finally works through the chord and causes a flat. Pick out the bit with a pin (OK to carry through TSA checkpoints), or a knife (not OK with TSA).

With the decline of Eastman Kodak in this part of NY, many of the cities show signs of difficult times. I loved the spirit, customer focus, and flexibility of this business owner in Newark, NY:

After the expensive food in Canada, this is a sure sign that we're back in NY, the land of "slices." (Great price, too.)

Newark had more murals. This one depicted the drug store that was no longer there.

Newark had a nice town square with a gazebo in the center . . .

and this fine building on the north side of the square:

I rode most of the route with Solomon and Jon. Solomon, being a volunteer fireman, likes to check out any open fire houses. The first one in Newark was conducting practice exercises and had little time to talk.

The second one in Lyons, was selling halves of barbecued chicken to raise funds. Of course we needed to buy a half. We had lunch at a Lyons park, where we saw this block house claimed to date to 1722.

Barber Welding displayed their talent in this metal Christmas Tree.

Apparently the trend to decorate city buildings with murals is equally popular in this part of NY State:

Today's route was mostly near the Erie Canal, but the tow path has been lost or at least not restored for most of the way. The Canal also veered away from our route, but numerous towns are long associated with the Canal. This mural deals with the laws regarding speeding on the Canal.

Western NY has had 10-straight days below 80F for the high temperature. Today was in the low 70's when riding. Most of the route was flat, but tomorrow I think we will begin to return to hills, probably towards the end of the route.

Many of the riders stopped to attend a church service, but a small group of us again opted for a Church for the Derailleur service and arrived in good shape, with no flats, and felling pretty fresh.

Jordan is quite a small town. We're staying at the Jordan Methodist Church, where they are cooking and having a pot-luck dinner.

The dinner was gourmet, not pot luck. My new best friend, Stephen Taylor:

cooked the finest meal that any of us have had on this trip. First the menu, then about Stephen.

The menu started with potato cheese soup. Presentation gets a 10 out of 10. Individual servings were garnished with scallions, bacon (real, nothing fake), grated cheese, and sour cream. Mandatory 2ND servings for nearly all.

The main course was a beef tenderloin mixed greens salad. The salad had roasted red peppers, grilled portabello mushrooms, and a choice of balsamic or Italian dressings. Again, two servings, mandatory.

Stephen is a 7th generation Floridian cowboy. He was an amateur and then professional rodeo, rough stock rider; trained for a short time as a professional chef; and is now a manufacturers' rep with a serious cooking habit.

Thanks, Stephen, from all of us.

John, Cindy, Dot, and Peter---you left too soon!

August 16 Brockport to Palmyra, NY 54 miles

2008-08-16T17:54:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3508

We started with a fine, cooked breakfast by Tim, John, and Cindy. We'll miss John and Cindy, who had to leave after Cindy's fall in Alma. City planners have begun to install "sidewalk extensions," where the sidewalk extends a full traffic lane into the street. The theory is that pedestrians will be safer as they have less distance to cross in traffic, and the extension gives them a spot to stand where they can see around the parked cars.

What's wrong with this plan is that bicyclists riding in to the right, as required are faced with two poor, unsafe choices: (1) veer out into the traffic lane, risking being hit by overtaking vehicles, or (2) hit the curb, if you can see the curb. Unfortunately, Cindy had option "2" imposed in Alma, causing a serious crash and a re-injury to her hip.

Bozeman, MT, my home town, has installed the same unsafe sidewalk extensions on South Wilson, one of our busiest streets, a serious lawsuit just waiting to happen. I realize that looking to Europe for precedents would be "Un-American," but the Europeans simply make an opening in the extension. Cyclists can safely continue riding near the curb, through the opening, without being forced into the traffic lane. (NIH)

Leaving Brockport, these are views of the lift bridge. Note: Lift bridges raise straight up; braw bridges tilt from the ends.) With a lift bridge, people can still walk across when the bridge is raised, using the steps at either end.

Tim, our driver, is also our "Canal Mother." He drives, serves meals in shifts, and generally tends to our needs, just like a "Canal Mother."

Here two canals meet:

Typical bike-path bridge, crossing the Erie Canal:

Solomon, crossing one of the numerous bridges.

Typical view down the trail. Our ride was totally flat and mostly on packed, fine-gravel surfaces.

We encountered this doe and fawn along the trail. Neither seemed terribly afraid of cyclists.

Either of these could qualify for Solomon's "Horse of the Day." Both were in Erie Canal-side villages.

Lots of Erie Canal activities on a Saturday.
Paddling:

Laying about in the house boat, with bikes on the roof/deck:

Bouncing: (He claimed to be able to run 15 mph on these:

Cruising:

Fishing:

Dog bakery in Palmyra: (No, KC and Eli, these treats don't travel well.)

A Palmyra house that was part of the Underground Railroad, smuggling slaves from the South to Canada:

Tomorrow is another relatively short day. The Erie Canal bike trail does not extend much beyond Palmyra, wo we will be back on the highways, #31 with a wide shoulder.

August 15 Niagara Falls, Ont., to Brockport, NY 69 miles

2008-08-16T17:09:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3454

Today we left Canada via the Queenston/Lewiston Bridge. Due to construction, we entered at the employee entrance, followed signs for bikes, and crossed in the right-hand truck lane. The TSA person told us: "No bikes are allowed on this bridge" despite the bike signs on the Canadian side instructing cyclists exactly how to cross. Then to get to our planned route East, he advised us to go up a highway ramp the wrong way, climb over the center barrier of a four-lane divided highway, and ride on. We did, saving about 3 miles.

After passing through Lewiston, we rode through the Tuscarora Indian reservation and had lunch at "The Sugar Shack." (Unrelated to the song).

Lockport claims to have the world's wides bridge:

(Yes, the bridge is these surface streets over the Erie Canal.)

We watched a boat enter the lock at Lockport.

For my brother, Tom, in Omaha--he might not know that he owns a diner. (Just like John McCain and his houses—hard to keep track of all that property.)

Drive-in movie theaters still exist . . .

. . . with two screens.

The "Big Apple" in Middleport, along the Eriw Canal, posing with my apple-red Bike Friday.

Shots of Middleport reflected in the Erie Canal:

This Lyons wrecker had an interesting mural on his cab---perhaps that's why getting your vehicle towed is so expensive, someone has to pay for the art.

More crops--this is cabbage, and a cabbage field.

Brockport has a fine Main Street. This town of 4,000 also has 7,000 students. Main Street is well preserved. As Bozeman, MT, knows, a State university means steady money.

This particular canal-side establishment served adult beverages (Thanks, Peter), as was our favorite.

That's Jim C, Nancy, and Earl.

Our host church, conveniently on Main Street:

Anyone can check out these free bikes for a ride, just like checking out a library book.

Erie Canal-side sculpture in Brockport:

I bet it has been a long time since you have seen a commercial touting Ivory Soap as "the soap that floats", probably only familiar to those of a certain mature age.

August 14 Niagara Falls, Ontario Rest Day 40 miles

2008-08-14T13:58:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3385

Yesterday, I cleaned my bike and did some laundry when I arrived. Today I planned to ride to Niagara-on-the-Lake, a beautiful town on Lake Huron. Many aspects remind me of Carmel, CA.

This is Niagara Gorge, below the Falls:

The water for hydro power inters upstream, above the Falls, and exits here.

Hisoric stone cottage . . .

. . . and historic house:

Historic lighthouse marking the beginning of the Niagara River:

American Fort on the opposite shore:

Pet store (for Nancy):

Explains the history of Niagara-on-the-Lake:

Courthouse

Oldest drug store in Canada:

Wineries with buildings to rival Napa and Sonoma:

Floral clock, on the Niagara Parkway that connects Niagara, Ontario, and Niagara-on-the-Lake:

Ontario Power's outlet from the water taken in at Chippewa, several miles above the Falls:

After returning from Niagara-on-the-Lake, I rode around downtown Niagara Falls. If given the opportunity, don't bother. The business district has been abandoned, consisting of mostly closed businesses. The "tourist area" is where it's happening, and it ain't good. Enuf said on that.

Back to the USA tomorrow. Two weeks to home as well.

Still claiming territory for Eli.

August 13 Haldiman NP (Selkirk) to Niagara Falls, Ontario 92 miles

2008-08-14T13:41:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 3345

Today's ride was on narrow roads on the north shore of Lake Erie and bike trails. This is Jon:

Selkirk boasted this wall mural"

A beautiful ride, until the rain.

I'm intrigued by the caution signs. The Canadians seem more creative with their signs.

For bikes

For farmers, tractors, and farm animals

For wildlife

Port Colborne, and nice stop and the beginning of the bike trail:

Buffalo, across the Niagara River. Unfortunately, we had to say goodbye to Peter, who :shuffled off to Buffalo near the end of today's ride.

When the rain hit, with lightning and thunder, I spotted an open garage. The couple invited Jon and I to wait out the storm, and Marlene joined us. The had this rescued English bull Mastiff. (OK, Nancy?)

Our official Dog of the Day:

Here are the obligatory shots of Niagara Falls, both up and down river:

The drowned look:

Scads of tourists:

August 12 Port Burwell to Haldiman Nature Park 70 miles

2008-08-14T13:11:00.000-07:00

Total mileage is 3253

Haldiman Nature Park is near Selkirk. Due to some directions issues, like road name changes, I managed to ride a few extra miles. Fortunately, I felt good, so it wasn't an issue. just a little frustrating.

Port Burwell, had a number of nautical objects on the eastern side of the port:

Here, Solomon tries to impersonate Scotty in the engine room, "Full Speed Ahead."

This lifeboat is from George Steinbrenner's (NY Yankee's owner--Madison Square Garden, etc.)grandfather's original ship, where he started accumulating his fortune. The sure method is to inherit.

Yes, this is a our route, reported to be "fine gravel" in our directions:

A gentleman stopped to talk at our campground, and noted that a bridge was out. We were informed at our evening meeting that the bridge had been our for years. Apparantly not---we opted for the detour over wading our building our own bridge.

Peppers:

Tobacco:

Typical roadside store. We're definitely in Canada.

Lunch was in Port Dover, by the draw bridge:

Sea-side street:

Port Dover's beach was really busy:

We arrived at Haldiman Nature Park (campground), located on a point extending nto Lake Erie. The wind was blowing about 30 mph, and setting up tents was a challenge. Then it rained, producing a beautiful rainbow. The wind died, and we had a fine evening.

Sunset over the power plant:

August 11 Ridgeway to a Nature Park near Port Burwell 81 miles

2008-08-12T11:09:00.001-07:00

Total miles 3183

We all got to the campground dry, but then it rained hard. The terrain was mostly flat, small hills, along the north shore of Lake Erie. Lots of garden crops, corn , soybeans, and even wind farms. I'm in the Fort Dover Public Library, mid-day, so photos will have to wait.

In politically correct Canada, campgrounds are called "nature parks" or "conservation areas." Perhaps it's easier to say that you have a "nature park" just down the road.

In the burg of Morpeth (perhaps the sister sity of Lesspeth) . . .

. . . the store posted the following practical sign:

You don't have to tell a cyclist. Here Solomon is . . .

Solomon and I stopped at a "U-Pick-I blueberry patch:

Then we had a fine conversation with this Canadian grower and real estate agent. (Name to be added.) We were not the best pickers. After finding out what we were doing, and noting the unacceptably high number of red, under-ripe blueberries in our bins, he snuck more into our bag, which I dangled from the aero-bars.

Observation: Eating nearly a pint of fresh blueberries before breakfast can affect one's digestive system.

A few miles later, we stopped for a second breakfast at a nice restaurant-garden center.

We met several people outside the restaurant. This man is 77 years old, rides 25 miles daily, and is in great shape. He emmigrated from Holland in the 50's, as a diesel mechanic. I hop I'm as fit and active at his age.

Meanwhile, Solomon gets propositioned by these two women. The older one is also from Holland; the yunger was Italian and wanted to know if Solomon was married.

To took these for Solomon's Horse of the Day photo . .

. . . but when Solomon went for a close up . . .

. . . they ran away.

We rode much of the day on this trail.

This explains Mr Talbot, not really a very nice man.

Lots of interesting mail boxes. perhaps it helps a farmer get the correct mail, and helps friends locate their farm.

Here's a shot of Solomon, riding the Talbot Trail:

We were passed by a tractor hauling hay bales:

So Jim C decided it would make a good draft. It did--we didn't see him for quite a few miles.

We had lunch at Port Stanley . .

. . . beside the lift bridge:

Our sag, below the bridge.

Port Stanley was once an important terminus for the rail road:

The train station is a museum:

. . . containing a "rail-bike", or really a had car riding on a single rail.

THe obligatory "jail photo."

The beach scene:

An a storage tank in disguise, beside the beach:

Here's the Fish Market restaurant:

Telegraph House

and the fire station:

Two views from the harbor:

An egret:

Cows and a wind farm:

August 10 Columbus, MI, to Ridgeway, Ontario 70 miles

2008-08-10T17:49:00.000-07:00

Total miles 3102

The morning after the rain started cold, about 50 F. I put on arm warmers, plus the windbreaker. We rode mostly flat, winding roads to the St. Croix River, dividing Michigan and Ontario. The St. Croix is the major ship channel between Lake Huron and Erie.

All of today's photos were taken in the first 40 miles. Then a solid, steady rain started, and we all just rode to the finish to get to a dry place.

We saw these sculptures in the park along the St. Croix River:

Yes, Mike, my bike and the kid's bike have the same size tires.

Solomon wins:

Racing:

Hand springs:

Sometimes the sculptures are an insufficient diversion (at least for Solomon). Caught

Kosher salt was mined here:

This plaque explains the following photo:

... as does this plaque:

This is Canada from the US, looking across the St Croix River:

Our ferry, landing to take us to Canada:

Most of our group on the ferry:

. . . and our ferry captain:

I have been inserting a lot of interesting caution signs. The Canadian signs are pretty creative. This warns of trucks entering the roadway.

I took this while riding along the St Croix River, in Canada, looking at the USA across the river. Shortly after, I picked up a glass flat. Lesson: Look where you're going.

Who knew that they grow a lot of tobacco in Ontario. The following two photos are a tobacco plant and tobacco field. The Canadian government is purchasing these tobacco-growing alotments, to reduce the amount grown. About what we do in the US with tobacco and peanuts.

I like to think of this as the home of Tupperware.

August 9 Frankenmouth to Columbus, MI 84 miles

2008-08-10T17:29:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 3032

The big news for the day was that Jim C, aka "Rocket Man", returned. He was cleared by a better doc, and equally important, his wife gave him a pass through to the Atlantic.

We really were staying at a church in the cornfields:

The day was threatening rain, so many of us rode steadily to avoid getting soaked. The rain held off, with the last two riders arriving 5 minutes before the rain began. It rained heavily for 2-3 hours.

I loved the specificity of this sign:

Another day for some minor but important maintenance. Ken W helped me adjust my rear derailleur, lubed the cables, and in general cleaned up the shifting. Peter, the only other rider with a leather Brooks saddle, had some Proofhide, a leather conditioner. The rain has been getting to the saddle.

Tomorrow, off to Ontario, Canada.

August 8 Alma to Frankenmouth, MI 68 miles

2008-08-08T14:34:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2948

Today is a short post. This is sugar beets, both close-up and the field:

We are staying in Frankenmouth, a real German-immigrant-settled town, replaced almost entirely by a plastic German town.

We managed to find an excellent micro-brewery and restaurant for lunch. Earl and Nancy ordered the sampler, 10, 4-0z. samples of every beer they brew. (I personally recommend the IPA.)

Today we ride 80+ miles to Columbus, near the Canadian border. We stay at a church in a cornfield. Honest! On Internet, and then on to4 days in Canada, one hotel and 3 campgrounds. I may not be able to update this blog for a few days.

We're down to about 16 riding days and under 1000 miles.

August 7 Freemont to Alma, MI 81 miles

2008-08-08T14:32:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2880

Many Amish farms were along our route. I love these signs.

They prefer that people not photograph them, but I thought this clothing was typical of their colors.

The carriages were covered and uncovered. Either way, their trotters really move---beautiful horses. They all have similar coloring.

More signs. So far, we have managed to avoid these roads. I should probably say something profound about this one. Think about it and write your own caption.

THis is for Frank and Denise in Olney, MD. As seen earlier, Montana has a town named Olney. Not to be outdone, Mochigan boasts Howard City.

Crop lessons resuming. I had to point out to Solomon today that these are green beans. Left to mature, they are picked and shelled for dry beans. These appeared to be red kidney beans.

Subsequent fields contained cucumbers. I missed the shot of the harvester, an huge machine with a large drum that appeared to separate the cucumber from the foliage. I picked up cucumber for the sag lunches.

Take this, Graham Watson. Michigan and Bike Across America have our own sunflower shots. Oops, no cyclists in the photo.

How about bees?

I'm not competing with Solomon for "Horse of the Day", but these were appealing faces:

The Alma bike shop had this saddle to tempt Solomon, his potential 5th saddle. He resisted. Actually, Solomon went from one pair of bike shorts to using two pairs. Yesterday, he went back to a single pair, just a sign that his butt is getting adapted. How's that for too much info?.

August 6 Luddington to Freemont, MI 66 miles

2008-08-08T14:31:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2799

Leaving Luddington, this was a foggy morning along Lake Michigan. This is Bill R, riding ahead.

The fog is gradually burning off . .

. . . revealing more distinct bike shadows along the road.

Another artsy (?) shadow shot along the road:

Lakeside road:

Historic markers on the shipwrecks along this part of Lake Michigan:

We rode past a number of lakes, lined with boats and summer homes:

We rode past numerous fields of asparagus. This part of Michigan has a lot of truck farming and land devoted to garden crops. This is asparagus.

Part of the route was over a paved bike trail, one of the first built in the US. We are sadly behind most European countries on bike trails, a modest investment to improve overall public health. If you build them, they get used, especially if they connect to things. Too many trails are unconnected bits that seldom get used. A real cyclist will use the road.

We stopped for lunch at a dairy, where I posed on the "H" International. We had an "M" model, slightly bigger.

Holsteins, where all that milk originates.

I arrived at 2 pm, and decided this was the day to rebuild my cracked wheel. I had never done this, but one does this type of trip to learn things, to be challenged. Ken Wright was my guide, coaching me through the process. With interruptions for dinner and our nightly meeting, I had it done by 8:30 pm. As I try to catch up on August 8, the wheel is doing great with on additional adjustments required. I traced the lacing pattern on the paper, so I could match it when building the wheel.

August 5 Manitowoc to Luddington, MI 13 miles

2008-08-08T14:29:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 2743

Today was largely a rest day. We had the morning to explore Manitowoc before boarding the ferry to cross Lake Michigan to Luddington.

While I can't vouch for the quality of this place, I like the name:

Luddington had a courthouse that looked like a state capitol.

Budweiser owns a large malting plant where they malt barley before shipping it to the breweries.

This is the original location and factory store foe Berntsen's Chocolates and Ice Cream:

. . . with the original store interior:

This is the view of the malting plant from the ferry. Just like the airlines, we had a "delayed departure" announcement read 20 minutes after we were scheduled to leave.

This ferry is coal-fueled, hence the large piles of coal in the foreground of the prior and following photos.

Luddington has a small lighthouse at the end of the harbor jetty.

Coming into the Luddington, MI, harbor.

We all rode to our hotel, and then Jim C, Bill F, and I returned to downtown Luddington for dinner at the local micro-brewery. We rode back in thick fog off of Lake Michigan.

Tonight's room mate was Mike. On the whole, a pleasant day, but many of us would have preferred to be riding a bit more. Not a lot to do on a ferry but read---starting a new Larry McMurtry book, "I Roads."

August 4 Fond du Lac to Manitowoc, Wi 75 miles

2008-08-05T04:55:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2730

Similar to yesterday, the route was by large dairy farms, grain fields, and wet lands. This was one of the largest dairy farms. That's silage under the tarps, and a device like a continuous miner, loosening the silage before taking it to the cows. This farm had three large confinement barns across the road. In Wisconsin, all the milk seems to go to large cooperatives for processing. I have yet to see any of the small, artisan cheese and yogurt makers that are common in Vermont and California. They must exist, be we haven't seen them.

This sign marked part of today's route:

Mount Carmel was a beautiful hill-top community. They had this convent, a school beside the convent, and a church and monastery on the top of the hill. I noticed a seminary on the way out of town.

The melting Wisconsin Glacier left moraines, creating steep but short climbs for cyclists, and an ideal spot for windmills.

Elkhart Lake was the site of a closed circuit race track. They had major international open-wheel racing here in the early 1950's.

We rode to the western shore of Lake Michigan, another major milestone.

The view north toward Manitowac:

Me, lake side:

We were puzzled by "HIKA." I planned to make up a great explanation until seeing the faded sign: "HIKA Bay Tavern."

These Holsteins seem to be able to line up better than a bunch of cyclists. Perhaps it was just typical Long Island charm from Solomon that did the trick.

Remember the 60's? R. Buckminster Fuller? Geodesic domes?

Or perhaps aliens settling along Lake Michigan. This must be quite an arresting sight when coming home from the local Wisconsin tavern. I guess a local contractor had this built. Perhaps 1/2 of the home or building sites on this shore seemed to be listed for sale. Under one of those "Seemed like a good idea at the time," I suspect few of these home are occupied more than a few weeks per year.

The Cedar Crest cow, outside their dairy and ice cream store, on the edge of Manitowac. Yes, It's bigger than a Bike Friday.

As an Iowa farm boy, I did milk cows in my youth. Can't say that I miss it. This one must be dry, all size and no milk.

Anheiser Busch owns a large barley malting plant harbour-side in Manitowoc. Here they are loading malted barley for shipment to a brewery. Manitowoc is filled with the smell of roasting barley.

We will be taking this ferry on a 4 hour trip across Lake Michigan August 5.

Solomon has been experimenting with bike saddles. He started with one, and has purchased 3 more. #2 is on the bike. Cyclists argue endlessly over whether a good saddle exists, or whether it's just a matter of breaking in your butt.

Solomon also added a kickstand today. I went back to the shop to get one as well, since Nancy has requested one for her Bike Friday. Solomon got the last one! I'll keep looking. Our local bike shop helpfully offered to "drill a hole in her frame" to mount a kickstand. No thanks!

August 3 Portage to Fond du Lac, WI 96 miles

2008-08-05T04:53:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2655

I mentioned earlier that I discovered a cracked rim on my rear wheel yesterday. I ordered a new rim, and Ken will build the wheel when it arrives. These are the cracks at the end of today, no change from this morning. I guess the neighboring spokes are taking the load.

Today's ride was through beautiful countryside, mixed farm and wetlands. This is an ideal area for cranes, which can feed on the abundant grain. Here are a few shots of the cranes.

We're in Amish country:

Solomon has been publishing his "horse-of-the-day" in his blog. Some days he struggles to find a horse. Here are a couple of "rejects" for horse of the day honors:

In the "plaques to famous citizens" category, this was along our route. Note the classic use of vague language in "Bernie's life and music came to an untimely end."

Fond du Lac is an interesting small city with a lot of history. This is a monument to the Wisconsin Brigade in the Civil War, noting the various major campaigns. In the West, we seldom have these memorials, as the western states were admitted after the War.

Our host had the line of the day: "There's a church or bar on every corner in Wisconsin." My observation is that Fond du Lac is way over their quota on bars, with perhaps four per block on Main Street. As noted earlier, Fond du Lac is rehabbing downtown, and the bars seem to be the most resilient businesses. One good wine store, Tim, but I didn't ask how long that they had been in business.

Today, Jon and I got ahead of the sag, so we had lunch at the Mazatlan, a good Mexican restaurant on Main Street. My seafood burrito was a nice change from the daily sandwiches.

Fond du Lac meant "foot of the lake" the lake being Winnebago. Lake Winnebago was carved by the Wisconsin Glacier and is about 35 miles long, perhaps 12 miles across, with a average depth of 12 feet. Here are a few shots of the Lake and lighthouse on the southern shore.

August 2 Sparta to Portage, WI 96 miles

2008-08-02T14:05:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 2580

Arrived at the hotel at 3:30, waiting to be checked in, so I am beginning today's post.

The day started early, due to the distance and anticipated high temperatures. We had a pancake breakfast at 5:15, then Jon, Jim, Solomon and I left, joined by Marlene and Bill R. Solomon had 47 F on one of his devices, so it was unusually cool. We rode one of the rail trails that passed through trees, obscuring much of the countryside, and 3 tunnels. That's Jon and then Jim C in front of the tunnels.

The first was 3/4 mile long; the second and third were 1/4 mile long. I brought a LED light and rode slowly through. The experience is pretty disorienting. On the long tunnel, you can barely see light at the other end. (Yes, there was light at the end of this tunnel. The tunnel ceiling was dripping and the temperature was warmer than the air, but still cool.

Due to my cracked rim, I opted to ride more of the road that paralleled the crushed limestone trail. The crushed limestone really packs into bike parts, cables, and fenders. I removed and washed the fenders at the first stop in Elroy. Dampness and limestone form like cement on pike parts.

Reedsburg was having a sidewalk sale, so I had an iced coffee, a good pickup after genuine Midwestern church coffee. (You know you're in trouble when you can see the bottom of the cup at all times, even when full.) This is a wall mural in Reedsburg:

And one of the more impressive downtown buildings:

Back for more crop lessons. This is hemp, a typical wild, Midwestern plant. Some consider it a weed, some consider it something else.

The Beetles have long had an association with hemp. Here, a beetle with glaucoma seeks relief.

This is a milk weed plant. In WWII, people collected the pods for life vests. I don't know how well they worked.

We had a nice lunch in a park, then off to finish. I was following Jon, Jim C, Nancy, and Earl, but I stopped to take a photo, then rushed to catch up (unsuccessfully) but missed my turn. The usual "operator error" but it only cost me about 4 miles. I then rode the rest alone. This is the view along Levee Road, along the Wisconsin River:

Portage is one of those towns that has tried to safe downtown by nearly killing it. The main street has closed signs, they have posted numerous "downtown businesses are open" signs, but many of the stores appeared to have closed.

Upon entering Portage on a Sunday afternoon, I encountered a heavy metal Christian rock concert in the park. Enuf said;

I rode out to the hotel, after asking for directions, and hope someone will appear to check us in. Yep, checked in just before 5 pm. Peter joined us today, plus Marlene had several friends from Madison drop by for dinner. Some will ride with us tomorrow.

August 1 Winona, MN, to Sparta, WI 58 miles

2008-08-01T13:53:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 2484

The ride started with a mass ride over the Mississippi River Bridge at Winona. After the Minneapolis bridge collapse, MN inspected all their bridges and decided the Winona bridge was safe for cars and trucks, but that the walkway for pedestrians and bikes was unsafe. Go figure, but I think that we probably weigh a little less. Our solution was to ride across as a group, followed by the support vehicle as our rear guard. However, our support vehicle had iffy directions, and disappeared.

While waiting for the support vehicle, a helpful driver in a pick-up from Wisconsin felt obligated to tell us that bikes were NOT allowed on the bridge. Our backup plan was to refer all inquiries to our lawyers (Jim C and Bill F).

The morning was foggy and about 70 F. Here's the Wisconsin State line sign and a foggy road:

After about 20 miles on pavement, we did the rest on a series of crushed limestone bike trails, all rail-to -trail conversions. An early stop was one of the locks on the Mississippi River:

Upon leaving the Missippi River Lock, we spotted the egret along the road:

Along the trail was a 2000-year old Indian burial mound. most have been destroyed.

We encountered several sand hill cranes on the trail:

After about 4 hours, Jon and I arrived in Sparta, set up the porta-shower, and unloaded the trailer.

Here are some onions, planted along the trail:

An all-American cow in Sparta:

Midwestern towns seem to feature a lot of these large animal statues. I'll leave it to blog readers to offer why in your comments.

And "Ben Bikin' an out sized cyclist on a penny farthing in Sparta:

When cleaning off the dirt, I noticed two cracks in my rear rim. After considering having Nancy send out her rear wheel, I opted to order a new rim and spokes from Bike Friday, scheduled to arrive Tuesday morning. The wheel is still true, so I plan to keep riding on it until the new rim arrives. I always have Jim C's back-up bike, as "Rocket" bought a new carbon fiber special.

America's roads are pretty rough, especially those constructed from concrete that heaves in the freeze-thaw cycle, creating "butt-pounder" cracks in the pavement. I'm about the 4th or 5th person to have wheel issues. Fortunately, Ken W is an excellent mechanic, so we will be rebuilding my wheel sometime in the near future.

Perhaps the most impressive sight was Mississippi River locks and herons or cranes, walking/running down the trail. I'll post pics when I have access.

July 31 Winona, MN Rest day 10 miles

2008-07-31T09:50:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 2426

Unfortunately, we had to say good-bye to Dot, who is returning to Vermont to prepare for the upcoming school year. We all will miss her constant smile, reminding us that any day on a bike is a great day.

Last night John and Cindy joined us, so we're up to 16 in the group. They are returning to complete a prior trip that was shortened by Cindy's fractured hip (fell on gravel in Fond Du Lac, WI).

Rest days are the time to clean bikes, do laundry, and rest. I used Bill R's chain wear tool. I still have half the wear left, so it should be good for the entire trip. The other need is to clean the bike, as Gatorade is really sticky when it drips from a bottle.

It's now 4:45 pm as I complete this post, so time for a short "Bill R" before dinner (that's a nap).

Today is now rainy, so I completed the first two items early. John, a local parish member, has been very helpful. When asked to recommend a laundry, John offered his home. Typical generous Midwestern hospitality. John has a Bichon Shitzu mix, Sunny, nicknamed Mutsy, the Dog of the Day. Nancy, is that a Bitchin' Shitz?

John also has building doll houses since he retired. This one is for his daughter, who is now 29. I guess we all have unfinished projects. (Nancy, settled on the paint color for the living room?)

My Bozeman friends, Daryl and Robin C, have a building in Winona named after them. Lost relatives?

Many of the historic buildings are made of locally quarried limestone. Perhaps the building committee for this Methodist Church couldn't decide how big to make the steeple, so all four committee members got their wish. Beverly C, how's that for a difficult client compromise solution?

Solomon has been having "saddle trouble," so he is working on his 4th. Here is a group of saddles just waiting for Solomon.

Winona is located between a lake on the north side and the Mississippi River on the south side. This is the lake with the "nob" on the bluff. Shades of a John Prine song, Winona, an Indian maiden, was denied permission to marry the warrior of choice, so she jumped off the nob to her death.

Interior of the Merchant's Bank, with the large mural and art deco stained glass:

Perhaps the Winona Savings Bank is the most elaborate, founded and built by the Watkins Spice owner. I guess he needed a place to park all that patent medicine money. This is the entrance (flipped 90 Deg. later).

Watkin's wife or daughter was a big game hunter in the 1920's. The second floor atrium if full of trophy cases. This is Frank Lloyd Wright's design, much admired by Watkins. He wanted something similar for his bank.

Perhaps starting a trend, here is the genuine Tiffany stained glass window:

And now, the animals:
Elephant ears (?)

Ostrich

Rhino

How do they breathe in those cases?

And the guns that shot the animals:

Street sculpture in Winona:

July 30 Kasson to Winona, MN 70 miles

2008-07-30T14:25:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2416

Turned out to be a pretty easy day, with a 65 F start and generally a 10 mph tail wind. We were at a motel, so some left early and some slept in. I chose the latter, starting at 7:45. Due to confusion over directions, I found a route that was a bit easier, and ended up being 1st to the lunch stop with Jon and Ken.

After dawdling at lunch, I rode in the rest alone. The end of the route took us down a stream course to the Mississippi River, then followed a road along the river. After arriving in Winona at the church where we are staying, I rode around the town.

Two shots of a mural in Eyota, MN. I've seen more murals on this trip than I thought existed in small towns.

Watkins Spice Company is headquartered in Winona. This is a genuine Tiffany window in their HQ building. Winona once boasted multiple stained glass studios, and likes to call itself the "stained glass capitol of the US."

This Winona home is up for sale.

View along the Mississippi River, entering Winona:

Barges on the Mississippi:

St Charles, MN, main street:

View up and down the Mississippi from Winona:

Bike hanging in the Polish Museum. Seems that the lumber companies brought a number of Poles in to work in the lumber mills. After exhausting the Wisconsin and Minnesota forests, they closed the mills.

Watkins Spice sales/delivery wagon (Patent medicine, originally):

July 29 Waterville to Kasson, MN 62 miles

2008-07-29T15:28:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2346

I guess this was a free-for-all route day. The directions, lacking clarity for some riders, prompted some of the group to take a shot at route finding. All ended well, as the typical Midwestern grid system is pretty hard to mess up. When all else fails, I keep reminding the worriers that pretty much everyone speaks English along our route. (No comments from my British readers.)

Time for a crop lesson, boys and girls. This is oats:

Alfalfa:

Red clover

Little yellow flowers: (You name them)

A mural in West Conrad, probably depicting the town at its peak:

A small, rural butcher shop had these trophies mounted:

About 3 miles out from Kasson, we went through Mantorville, a well preserved, historic town. This is one of the original homes.

This is the US Post Office:

Playhouse:

Another historic cabin:

The bank:

Now defunct Mantorville micro-brewery:

The beer continues to be available, made in Wisconsin. It was skunked, and the bar maid said that was normal. If so, somebody should be fired. Where is "the Donald" when you need him?

This is the Hubbell House, a coaching inn now used as a 400-seat restaurant.

The Hubbell House Hotel has this mural in the dining area, depicting famous Minnesotans. However it is seriously incomplete, or at least out-dated. I have three great friends from Minnesota, Tim C (proprietor of Vino Per Tutti, Bozeman Montanna's finest wine store), Pete H. (an extraordinary cyclist who completed his Dream Tour of the Lower 48 states), and Kathy K (Director of Intermountain Therapy Animals, Salt Lake area and Bozeman, MT).

Upon entering Kasson, I noticed a sign for a free ice cream social at the Methodist Church that evening. Of course most of our group had to attend. Since we were in a motel, this was a great place to meet the local people.

Mike is amused; Bill F is showing off the names of the towns visited on the back of his shirt; and Dot looks on from the right. Bill is pretty happy about that ice cream. Solomon and I, attempting to demonstrate a little more decorum, pose with the serving crew in the kitchen.

On the ride back to the motel, we rode by this water tower. This is the only stone-supported water tower that I've ever seen.

July 28 New Ulm to Waterville, MN 65 miles

2008-07-29T15:17:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2284

Another nice, low key day. It was humid, with high clouds. The route was gently rolling and then went on a trail, with many lakes nearby. The largest city was Mankato, which we largely navigated by trail.

This was for soccer fans, along the Mankato trail:

The big buffalo is along the trail, riverside, in Mankato:

Canadian geese along the trail:

And the kitchen crew at the Methodist Church in Waterville:

The menu was fresh sweet corn, spaghetti, and 10 kinds of homemade cakes.

July 27 Tracy to New Ulm, MN 68 miles

2008-07-29T14:46:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2219

On the road to new Ulm, a really large horse barn:

Jon, Jim C, and I did our best to get to New Ulm before the rain hit. Unsuccessful. We got soaked, then waited out the storm for 90 minutes in a Hardee's Restaurant, then resumed riding when we saw Bill F and Jim C go by. They shamed us into riding in the rain.

New Ulm, a German community, has a number of impressive houses and buildings:

Jim C, Bill F, and I toured the Schell Brewery, the 2nd oldest in the USA. Here are some photos:

Some of the labels that they produce:

The August Schell mansion:

Of course, you also have to have a tasting session. This one was at a brisk pace, no time offered for reflection:

Someone is always asking where we are going, so it's printed on a tee-shirt:

Needless to say Bill F is a law professor, but we'll leave out the name of the law school:

As I was taking the picture of this sign, which symbolizes the founding and history of New Ulm:

a car stopped, and the driver said, "this is the artist in the back seat":

This was the first time he had ever seen anyone taking a picture of his art. Pretty flattering for the artist.

The best part of this photo of a 100+ MPG, self-made car was the sticker: "You can tell a German, but you can't tell him much."

July 26 Brookings, SD, to Tracy, MN 68 miles

2008-07-29T14:05:00.000-07:00

Total miles 2151

We had another beautiful weather day, 65 F to start, overcast, light wind. We crosses into Minnesota early in the ride.

This is "Rocket" Jim C, the first day on his new bike. We've had an arms race, with riders upgrading tires, wheels, and saddles, and then stripping off excess racks. Again Jim is "most improved" on the trip.

Yes, another state border crossing.

A large wind farm is located along the border. This is a single blade, lying on the ground, with bikes alongside.

Yes, my own music festival (poor scheduling).

The highlight of the day was Tyler, a community settled by Danes. Here is the Pontiac dealer.

We often see signs for summer festivals, but they are usually just before or after we visit.

Tyler was having their Ableskiver Festival.

Here is the group eating ableskivers, those little round balls.

They are made with pancake batter, and cooked in cast iron rays. The cooks carefully roll them over to brown on all sides. One variant is to place jam in the middle.

Jim C poses as the Danish palace guard:

Log cabin moved onto the fair grounds:

Solomon entertaining his legion of fans:

And two festival dancers:

Here is a dancer unclear on the proper uniform of the day---just seems to be a total lack of fashion sense.

Here is much of our group at the festival:

The Tyler church is "cross-shaped" and modeled after a church in Denmark.

Later, Solomon at swimming lessons. Can you identify the instructor?

July 25 Huron, to Brooking, SD 82 miles

2008-07-25T12:54:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 2083, we are over half way to Maine.

Feeling a little more tired than usual, I went to sleep by 9 pm and felt great today. I managed to mostly ride with others in the group and keep a moderate pace until the end, when several of us took off, riding 22-27 mph.

On leaving Bookings, these were some of the images on the wall, a giant buffalo at a car dealer, and the "world's largest pheasant. Free enterprise---questionable taste?

The route was mostly flat or slightly rolling, a partial tail wind, partly cloudy, and 70-80 F. Pretty much ideal.

Today's route had a number of towns. De Smet is the site of the Little House series of books, Laura Engels Wilder. They are milking it for all that they can. I stopped in the local coffee shop for a coffee and pastry, then went to the museum house. It was infested with groups of little girls in frilly dresses, touring the house. Enough to cause diabetes in a normal, healthy adult, so on down the road.

In response to Mike H's comment on my riding a bike that looks "like one his grandson would ride around a parking lot", which one is my bike?

Another site was Manchester, which was entirely wiped out by a tornado in 2003 (I think that's the year.) They say that the largest pressure drop ever recorded happened in this tornado. All that is left is the town pump and a tomb-stone-like monument with the names of the people who lived in the township. How do you create interesting photographs of nothing? Please refer to other's blogs to see what they did.

Brookings is a college town. This is Sidewalk Sale Day, and their Main Street is torn up (shades of Bozeman). I hope the businesses survive, but they don't look that healthy. They do have a large, well equipped bike shop. Fortunately, nothing has broken on my bike, so I don't need parts.

We are staying in a church, and they are grilling. Should be good. This is our last night in South Dakota; on to Minnesota.

July 24 Ft Thompson to Huron, SD 88 miles

2008-07-25T12:45:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 2001

I rode alone much of the day. Seems most were tired and wanted to go at a meandering pace. I had to finish in a reasonable time, as I had a 4 pm conference call and had volunteered to cook for the group. Here are llamas:

. . . the ass of the day . . .

. . . and hard, red, winter wheat, the high-gluten kind used for bread. (More crop eduction later.)

The first part of the day was the typical high plains, dry land farming. Then we dropped down a ridge and were in the Midwest; corn, sunflowers, wheat, trees, soybeans. The terrain was typical of a river bottom, totally flat and productive, much like northern Iowa.

This was a humid day, ranging from 80 to 100 percent humidity. Fortunately, the headwind was light and we had high cloud cover.

Going into Murdo, I stopped at a Zesto, the first one of these I have seen since the Zesto closed in my home town of Shenandoah, Iowa. I seemed to get there at the same time a group of 20 senior women were meeting, all wearing shades of red and blue. Any idea what that group might be?

Tonight's menu was spaghetti, salad, and ice cream. Seemed to be a hit. Recipe by request only.

July 23 Murdo to Ft. Thompson, SD 78 miles

2008-07-25T12:39:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 1913.

Like July 22, we had a head wind for the entire eastern portion, about 56 miles. I a headwind, is seems that flies get tired, too. This particular swarm decided to draft Bill R. I guess they like cotton better than lycra. "Ain't no flies on me. Ain't no flies on me"---but here they are.

Then we turned north and had a significant tail wind. What a pleasant change.

I rode the first 35 with Dot, Jon, and Marlene, helping them through the head wind. Then we were separated, so I rode the rest alone.

This was one of the few views that wasn't just grassland.

Gentleman's club? The "Prairie Chicken." I can't say if this is accurate.

We stayed at a hotel, owned by and adjacent to a casino on the Lakota Reservation. Ft Thompson is near a large dam on the Missouri River. Perhaps the only attractive part of a casino is that they offer fairly cheap food, anything to retain the marks. I'm still feeling pretty good, despite three days of headwinds.

July 22 Wall to Murdo, SD 101 miles

2008-07-25T12:33:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 1835

One of the harder rides, most of the group first went through the Badlands, National Monument. With a strong headwind, this was a tough day.

The morning was foggy and fairly high humidity. This is Earl and Nancy riding a few feet in front of me.

We encountered a herd of antelope just inside the entrance.

The Badlands were a cross of Goblin Valley State Park (UT) and Bryce National Park. Unfortunately, when I post the photos, you'll see that everything was muted in the fog.

Just before entering I-90, there was a tourist attraction featuring a pioneer homestead. Note how the sod house is built into the side of the hill.

I ended up riding most of the day alone--just no one riding the same pace. This is the road, until jumping onto the shoulder of I-90.

Much of the ride was to be on an I-90 frontage road, but the chip seal was so rough that I climbed over a fence and rode on the I-90 shoulder. I-90 turned out to be a mile shorter and the climbs were steadier. This is what swallows build under bridge expansion joints. I climbed over the I-90 fence at this bridge.

An unusual sight along I-90.

I saw numerous antelope in the Badlands, plus deer and prairie dogs. Still high western grazing land and some dry land farming.

July 21 Rapid City to Wall, South Dakota 58 miles

2008-07-21T12:59:00.000-07:00

Total miles 1734 miles.

After 2 1/2 days of rest, it felt good to be back riding. Today's ride was along I-90, and hen finished on I-90. The terrain was classic grasslands, with a few fields of oats, wheat, and barley. We are near the Badlands, a wildly eroded area.

I forgot to put my memory card back in the camera, so no road pics. However, this being Wall, site of Wall Drug, the original model for TT (tourist trap), here are four photos to remind you (1) that you have missed nothing if haven't visited Wall Drug, or (2) you would rather not visit again.

Pretty realistic!

World famous jackalope

T Rex (scary)

In case you missed Mount Rushmore, obviously coming soon!!!

We're in a comfortable motel, thinking about whether to take the Badlands Loop tomorrow, making it a 100+ mile day. Probably will, leaving at dawn to get sunrise photos and to ride as much as possible in cooler temperatures. For the next few days, it looks like the headwinds will continue to increase throughout the day, and temperatures will be in the low 90's F.

July 19 Rest Day (cont)

2008-07-20T14:51:00.001-07:00

Ken and Nancy rented two fans to drive us around. Here's our inside-the-van shot (photo credit to Solomon).

Front to back. left to right: Tim (new driver), Russ (initial driver), Marlene, Dot, Larry, Bill F, Mike, George (initial driver).

Joining the presidents at Mount Rushmore:

and the obligatory shots of Mount Rushmore:

Wild goats roam the monument. A mother, daddy, and kid were enjoying the grass:

Tomorrow, we begin a series of 80+ mile days, crossing South Dakota.

July 19-20 Rapid City Rest Days 0 miles

2008-07-20T14:15:00.000-07:00

Total miles 1676

Rapid City has bronze statues of all but the last 4 presidents, seemingly related to the nearness of Mount Rushmore. Here are four of them, with two included for Nancy because the statue included their dog. Can you name the presidents? For bonus points, can you also name the dogs?

On rest days, we do laundry, rest, watch the Tour d'France, and walk around the city. "Art Alley" is located just behind our hotel. "Taggers" were painting the walls, so a local artist got permission for artist to paint the walls, within acceptable rules. The art is pretty amazing. Here are some of the paintings.

After an Italian dinner and a short walk for ice cream, (primary fuel for cyclists), Marlene and I decided to see what Art Alley looked like under the lights. We found a band rehearsing, and became their audience, a nice extension to a late evening (11:15 pm). Most of the time we're in bed before 10 pm, and we all need the sleep.

Another place near our hotel was this fire station, remodeled into a micro brewery:

This is our hotel, the Albert Johnson:

On the 19th, we visited Custer State Park, seeing donkeys, antelope, and bison.
Bill R and his new best frind:

Solomon and his new best friend:

And a bison:

In Custer, I found this sign and treasure in a shop:

Then we went to the Cracy Horse Monument, a work in progress. This is the mountain that is being carved. Only the face is complete.

The final is to look like this:

And here are both the model and the mountain, side-by-side.

No one has a photo of Crazy Horse, so this was carved from eye-witness descriptions:

Stage coach in the adjacent museum:

The final stop was Mount Rushmore, added in the next post.

July 18 Spearfish to Rapid City, SD 52 miles

2008-07-20T14:00:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 1676

Since the route was short, the greatest challenge was the 10-15 mph headwind and highway construction. Riding on I-90 was about the only available route, so we had to contend with rumble strips extending entirely across the shoulder. Eventually, most of us jumped over to the other side of the interstate that was closed and rode on the new pavement.

About 20 miles out was Sturgis, site of an annual motorcycle rally that draws 500,000 riders, booking every hotel room within 90 miles.

Ranch on the way to Sturgis:

Sturgis store:

Sturgis main street:

And in Rapid City, the Firehouse Brewing Company, around the corner from our hotel.

Our hotel is the Alex Johnson. I asked if he was Howard's brother, but never got an answer.

July 17 Newcastle, WY, to Spearfish, SD 75 miles

2008-07-17T14:14:00.000-07:00

Total mileage 1624. If anyone wonders why these change, I sometimes go out after arrival to look over the town.

I left Newcastle at 7 am, the last to leave except for Ken W. I had to detour using the overpass to avoid a coal train at the rail crossing. Today was overcast and one of the prettiest of the trip. Spearfish in on the edge of the plains.
Yesterday, we began to see pines at the higher elevations. Today was all pine trees.

Many of the original towns are gone:

The route was fairly simple, generally climb for 33 miles, and then descend for 33 miles. The descent is generally about a 1-2 percent grade. Spearfish Creek has carved the canyon, so as we descend, the canyon walls just get higher. With the wet spring in the northwest, everything was green, a major contrast to a prior trip through this area with Nancy when forest fires were common.

This is the climb to the Pass:

Jim Con, in back, our "most improved" rider. He needed a knee replacement before the ride, but he just keeps getting better. How about that for a banker-lawyer? That's Bill F, just ahead of Jim.

Jon L and Jim Ch, two of my primary riding partners. We all ride about the same speed.

We saw a variety of wild life: deer, hawks, a wolf (too big for a coyote). Unfortunately, the photo was too blurry and too far away. Honest! Russ (our driver) saw a wild turkey with 7 chicks.

Last night, Dot and I encountered four bike tourists, guys in their 20's. They left New Jersey on June 21 (our departure date from Seattle), and they were already 2/3 through. However, they bike all day, average 80+ miles per day, and cowboy camp where they can. It was 7:15 pm and they were still riding. Cowboy camping is just pulling of the road and camping without permission (usually).

While I'm glad I'm not doing it that way, I'm glad I'm doing this trip. I met a BMW motorcycle rider in Buffalo, WY. He was part of a motorcycle club in New Jersey. Fourteen members of his local club were to attend a rally, but he was the only person to actually leave. He was riding alone, still planned to attend the rally, but then he missed his wife so much that he was going to leave early, eliminate the rest of his planed trip, and go home. That old theme of regrets keeps recurring.

This store has seen better days . . .

. . . as has this cabin.

About five miles from the pass, we entered South Dakota:

O'Neill Pass is the highest point on the crossing; Glacier's high point was 6305 feet.

Here, Bill R sprints to the top of O'Neill Pass for a Diet Pepsi hand-off. Bill has a 6-pack-a-day Pepsi habit.

For Rich, my hunting son-in-law---yes, we all will get old someday.

How many states boast of having a Bridal Veil Falls? This is South Dakota's version.

Two more pictures of Spearfish Canyon, a beautiful stretch of road for cycling.

One of the bigger disappointments (until perhaps Wall Drug) is this symbol of Spearfish, SD. We all anticipated a Native American spearing a fish in the water. Instead, it's just a "fish-on-a-stick" more appropriate for a fast food entree. They could at least put some water in the fountain. After all, this is the wettest Spring in 10 years. Note Jim Ch's disappointment (3rd from the left).

July 16 Gillette to Newcastle, WY 83 miles

2008-07-16T13:52:00.000-07:00

We left today with some confusion over the distance, whether 75 or 85 miles. My total is now 1549.

Much of the ride was along busy rail tracks, mostly hauling coal from area mines to power plants. This is a plant just east of Gillette.

Needless to say, guns are popular in Wyoming.

Jon L, aka "Hollywood", in front of his personal semi at our first stop, about 32 miles into the ride.

Near Upton we found this pioneer village.

The next two shots are of a real "soddy", a hut constructed from blocks of sod.

The jail is a plank construction, I suppose to make the walls stronger.

This is Jim C in jail:

Jim C visiting the brothel.

. . . Marlene avoiding Jim C. in the brothel:

Wyoming has a number of bars:

Tonight, we are staying in the Newcastle Senior Center. For my English friends, it's "grab a granny" night. Most of our group qualifies for admittance. Actually, it's a fine facility with computers, professional kitchen pool tables. lounge chairs, and lots of room. After dinner but before our meeting, Dot and I rode downtown. Newcastle is built on a steep ridge, and the other side of town is quite different. Nice courthouse. Met two bike tourists who left New Jersey June 21, averaging 80 miles per day, and they were still riding at 7 pm.

This is the courthouse in Newcastle and an iron sculpture of a miner, located nearby.

Tomorrow, we leave Wyoming, going to Spearfish, South Dakota.

July 15 Buffalo to Gillette, WY 72 miles

2008-07-15T19:22:00.000-07:00

Total mileage is now 1466.

Most of you have driven I-90, so no pictures today. I didn't take any.

We rode the shoulder of the interstate all the way. While usually littered with glass and tire tread, not one person had a flat. Jon and I started at 6:30 and finished at 11:15, just as it started to get hot. Later today, the temp hit 98 F.

We had a great dinner in the church where we are staying on the outskirts, so most stayed close. I had a short nap, as tomorrow is 85 miles.

July 14, Sheridan to Buffalo, WY 39 miles

2008-07-14T14:23:00.000-07:00

Total mileage is 1394. If you have been following my rear tire saga, it failed today after 26 miles, just after entering I-90. With a few miles on it before leaving, I'm guessing it ran over 1400 miles, with 400 of them after the glass cut. Life gets pretty simple on trips like this, all this focus on a tire cut.

Our sag drivers, George and Russ, are going to be missed. Today, with the short distance, they fixed bacon and pancakes topped with Vermont maple syrup from Nancy and Ken W's trees.

We loaded the sag and most of us went to look at downtown Sheridan, a western town with a great main street. Only a few towns have managed to preserve their main streets. Only Bozeman, Sheridan, and Buffalo come to mind. This is Bozeman Man, in honor of the cattle trail that ended in Bozeman, MT.

We all visited King's Saddlery and King Ropes. I found that rodeo roper's ropes are stiff simply because they are twisted tighter than marine ropes. It's not the coating, although they are coated to protect them from moisture.

Our rope expert, who explained the above. He noted that many of the professional rodeo riders have their lassos and pigging strings (to tie up roped calves) custom-made here. The obviously keep a huge stock, mostly custom, ready to ship.

Solomon and Ms. King. (Yes, the same name as the store.)

Nancy and Earl with Ms. King

They have a store on Main Street and a museum behind, well worth anyone's visit. Here is a nicely stuffed mountain lion:

I found that Skidmore's Saddle Conditioner, made in Laramie, WY, is the best that you can us on leather, important for leather chairs, car upholstery, and Brook's bike saddles. (Nancy, see if they have it at the Bozeman custom boot shop on Main Street, p.ease.)

If you stop, spend a little time with Ms. King, a veteran horsewoman and expert on saddles, horses, ranching, and the geography of the area. I imagine she would be working at the museum, even if unpaid, simply because she loves to talk about anything relevant to cowboys, ranching, and the West.

We began riding about 9:30, much later than usual, and hotter. We saw these antelope just outside town, leaving Sheridan.
Still, it was a short distance and amounts to a rest day. We are at the local Congregational Church, and one of the church members is preparing beef brisket in a dutch oven, after marinating overnight. Also baked beans, as he was cooking the bacon when we arrived. Hopefully, we'll be able to watch the last Tour stage in the Pyrenees.

This is Dot, taking a break mid ride.

Outside the Buffalo, WY, drugstore with the original soda fountain.

Outside a Buffalo bank:

Buffalo was the side of the "range wars." At the time, a calf born to a branded cow could be roped and branded by anyone, making it their property. Cowboys made a living doing this. In the first sculpture, the cowboy had roped and is branding the steer, but he is being caught. In the second sculpture, the rancher is drawing his rifle on the cowboy.

The following are photos of the Occidental Hotel, Buffalo. The first is the cook, who took me on a walking tour showing me the bullet holes in the wall, behind the bar, and in the ceiling.

The judge visited Buffalo monthly and held court at this desk. They just slid out the desk, convened court, and conducted the trial. For a murder trial, judgement and sentencing in a few hours. Sitting at the desk is the cook, my personal guide for the day, and husband of the bartender.

The entire hotel began as a barn, and was converted to a hotel in 1908, serving the local army fort. This is the bar, shipped from Europe, and still original.

When visiting, one might as well order:

When eating in the restaurant, you can request vault seating, since this portion was the bank, built into the same building.

Yes, this was an infamous brothel, established primarily to service the army fort. All of the upstairs rooms have been converted to larger rooms for a B & B, but this one was left as original.

July 13 Hardin, MT, to Sheridan, WY 88 miles

2008-07-14T14:06:00.000-07:00

We left the hotel in Hardin for a 6 am breakfast at a local restaurant. As we rode to the hotel, the bank thermometer read 44 degrees. We're no likely to see much more of that.

This was a veteran's memorial dedicated to members of the Crow Tribe who died in WWII.

Bear at the Memorial:

While the road generally followed I-90, I 90 was built later on less expensive ridge lines. Our road followed valleys and was largely flat. However, 88 miles is a long time to sit on the saddle.

This being Sunday, I dubbed this the "Church of the Derailleur". We baptised our chains with lube and cycled toward Maine.

Elevators all over the West were often painted to advertise a particular brand of flour.

We left Montana about 11:20 am.

Me at the Montana/Wyoming State line

Jon L, (aka "Hollywood") my riding partner, at the State line

The gate next to the border sign had an owl statue on the post, whether to scare cyclists or other birds.

Much of the route followed a busy rail line. We probably passed a train every 20 minutes. Most were unit trains hauling coal. One rider counted 118 cars.

The Montana portion was through the Crow Indian reservation. The drivers were courteous, generally holding out their arms out of the window, hands extended. The dogs in the villages weren't as friendly. You just have to make sure someone is slower that you are.

Jon L and I arrived in Sheridan about 1 pm. Being the first in, that means unloading the sag,

setting up the shower, and Jon started cooking chili. Riders occasionally cook the evening meal.

Sheridan had an amazing collection of statues, mostly bronzes, posted on the main- and side-streets.

"Bozeman Scout"

Tin Man lives!

Too cute?

Keeping guard on the next guy?

Nice rope!

Jon prepared a fantastic chili, a touch sweet, not too hot, but with a lingering warmth. (How's that for a review?) After dinner, we managed to find a place that was showing the Tour d'France, so six of us walked a few blocks downtown to watch. With Monday being a short day, we could all sleep in a little later.

Here's a good line from a few days earlier: Ken W at the lunch stop as I was filling my bottle with Gatorade, "If the grape Gatorade starts fermenting in the heat, then we'll have to ban that, too."

Now for the exciting tire story. Still going, no ominous bulges.

July 12 Billings to Hardin (Saturday) 61 miles

2008-07-12T13:22:00.001-07:00

Total mileage: 1287, about 1/3 of the way.

Unfortunately, Margaret S has to leave our group today:

Today we left Billings, requiring a moderate climb out of the Yellowstone River Valley. This is some of our group climbing the ridge.

This is the view of Billings from the top of the ridge:

Many of our group gathered for a group photo at the top of the climb. In order left to right: Larry N, Jon L, Jim Ch, Marlene, Dot, Bill C, Jim Co, Earl, and Nancy P.

Sometimes, we have to give the bladder a little relief:

This is barley, the primary crop growing along this route, until sugar beets near Hardin. Yes, barley is a primary ingredient in that banned beverage, beer. Nancy (wife) notes in the recent George Will column that historically people who refused to drink beer died from contaminated water. The beer drinkers survived. Better safe than sorry, every cyclist's motto.

Sugar beet:

Jim C (Park City, UT) on the road to Hardin. Some day Jim will figure out how to quiet his derailleur.

We were warned in prior years that there had never been a good ride on this road. Perhaps just lucky again, but we had 10 mph tail winds, a good road surface, and minimal traffic. We had one short stop to fill bottles and then went on to Hardin for lunch at the motel where we stay for this evening.

After lunch I rode out to survey the town. This is the train depot; looks like the Chamber of Commerce lost out, just getting the wagon.

Murals painted on a rail car beside the depot.

Last Stand Western Wear's take on a bike bed:

July 11 Harlowton to Billings, MT 96 miles

2008-07-11T19:51:00.000-07:00

I noticed a glass cut in my rear tire, a Kenda Iron Cap (has a Kevlar belt). I thought I would see how long it would last. This photo is actually taken at the end of July 12, 3 days after I first noticed the cut. While the rubber is wearing around the cut, I see no sign of a bulge, so I have kept riding on it.

But this tire could fail, so this is my aero-mounted manner of carrying a spare. I'm going for the gypsy, bike-tourist look.

After almost 3 weeks, the total mileage is 1226.

Today's ride was both the our longest and easiest. We had a 30 to 45 mph wind out of the northwest and we were riding east and south. Jon and I averaged 25 mph for the first 47 miles going east, and 22 mph for the total ride of 90 miles to Billings. Then I went shopping in Billings for a SD card reader.

I have been trying to upload photos and finally discovered that my SD card reader was defective. With the prior reader, sometimes photos uploaded---sometimes they didn't.

Taken when leaving Harlowton this morning, this locomotive is one of the remnants of a town whose primary industry was as a rail center.

Main street, Harlowton, and 7 am.

This was the best preserved and maintained ghost town that I have seen. You can see the former glory of this hotel. The restaurant had "closed" posted three times on every window, even though we could see a few people inside. We don't smell that bad when we have a strong tail wind and it's less than 70 F.

We are staying at another church, a nice, clean facility on the outskirts of Billings. Unfortunately, the city center is more than 5 miles away, so it's a "wild" Friday evening as I update this blog. Fajitas for dinner and breakfast at 6:30 am. Tomorrow's ride is through part of the Crow Indian Reservation, just south of I-90 on an old highway. Harding is on the edge of the reservation, so Saturday night could be interesting. The Little Big Horn Battlefield is about 12 miles down I-90 from Hardin.

Overall, we have been lucky with the weather but unlucky with scheduling and local events. Most town's have events shortly before or after we visit.

I only took the 3 photos today, so perhaps the 25 mph average due to the tail wind was too good to brake for photos. We saw 7 antelope yesterday, and a 3 foot tall bird, perhaps a sand hill crane, but not being a specialist, it could have been Big Bird. (If so, Big Bird was in brown today.)

Not everyone can spart the time to ride the entire distance. We are losing Margaret tomorrow, who is returning to Virginia for family events. Dot joined us in Whitefish, and others will join and depart later.

July 10 Stanford to Harlowton 71 miles

2008-07-10T14:57:00.000-07:00

My wife, Nancy, will have to cope with a photo of the site. Yogo sapphires were just thrown in a coffee can.

This is pretty typical of the landscape. Some find it dull; I think it's beautiful in it's own way, much like a desert can be beautiful. At least it's unusually green, following a wet spring in Montana.

The ghost town of Moccasin had a bank, 1909 to 1929, the crash of the stock market and yogo vein.

We started with a group restaurant breakfast at the restaurant next to the hotel. I started the ride at 7 am.

The first 20 miles were rolling with a quartering tail wind to Edie's Corner, and then the fun began. The route was between the Little Belt Mountains and the Snowy Mountain ranges. Winds funnel through Judith Gap, the site of a wind farm with 90 windmills, and 35 more to be installed.

The wind ranged from 20 to 45 mph; the direction was either a quartering headwind or a direct headwind. I rode this portion with Solomon and Jon.

This is an example of the wind.

On of the historic signs noted that a stage stop, named U-bet, was 3 miles from our route. Perhaps U-betcha is just a little further down the road. They actually have a U-bet 4-H Club. No one seemed to know the origin of the name.

We arrived at the church and set up a porta-shower, unloaded bags, showered, unpacked, and headed for the library. It's 4 pm, library happy-hour! (Like we know where everyone is hiding out.)

As an engineer, this was spotted on Harlowton's main street:

People is this group range in age from 46 to 68. Nearly all are 58 or older. With a 90-mile ride into Billings tomorrow, this will be a quiet night for all.

A street sign advertises a rhubarb pie event at 7 pm. Most of us went, which made the event. The point was to encourage community gardens. Our biking group constituted all but about 4 of those attending, other than those contributing rhubarb items. We all sampled rhubarb pie, ice cream, punch, cake, and crisp. Still, this was a nice opportunity to mingle with the towns people.

Great Falls to Stanford, MT 63 miles

2008-07-10T14:31:00.000-07:00

Before leaving Great Falls, KC saying goodbye.

Me with KC and Eli--see you at the end of August.

Jim C and I getting ready to leave.

Jon, Eli, KC, and I about to leave the Ursaline Center in Great Falls.

Margaret, getting ready to leave:

On rest days, most of us spend a little or a lot of time checking, cleaning, adjusting, and even overhauling our bikes. The bikes take a beating on the chip-seal road surfaces, rainy days, and roads big cracks and expansion joints ("butt pounder roads").

We had mostly tail or cross winds and temperatures in the 70-85 F range. At 63 miles, it was a pretty easy day.

The terrain was mostly ranch, pasture, and grain (wheat and barley). We went by the site of the 1st nuclear missile and rode about 200 yards up a steep slope to visit the site. Of course it was guarded.

We found it was a control site and had no missile.

During this ride, we were often passed by convoys of dark-blue Air Force SUVs, with blackened windows. The feeling was both spooky and threatening, prompting me to think what it must be like in Iraq, where the convoys of SUVs, Humvees and armored personnel carriers containing foreign troops must be far more threatening. How would all of us react if these vehicles were filled with non-US soldiers and contractors. Food for thought.

At Geyser, reportedly a town with "no services", Jim C went in, and picked up his line-of-the-day at the bar: "This is a one-horse town and the horse died."

Solomon, Jon and I arrived at the motel in Stanford and waited a few minutes for the sag drivers to arrive. The owner stopped while we were having lunch and asked if we were the bike group. She owned the motel and had left a rooming list taped to the door, and keys in the unlocked room. After telling us what to do in Stanford, she went on to Great Falls to pick up some medicine.

We showered and visited the town, which was quite nice for such a small town. In a single building, they had a deli, gift show, museum, guitar store, and hardware store. After checking it all out, Dot, Marlene, and I went to the Town Pump for a beer and conversations with the locals.

Typical for a small town, the single patron was a roofer, would be cooking our breakfast the next day, and was the brother of the Air Force chef that we met at the missile silo. The 19-year old woman tending bar (apparently legal in MT) told us all about the town. Marlene, and nurse, offered career counseling. These types of conversations with the local people about what they do and how they live is what makes a trip. The roofer/cook kept saying that he had to get to the bank, but kept staying to remain in the conversation.

Dinner was at a local restaurant about 1/2 mile down the road, followed by our usual meeting to discuss the next day's ride. I'm back in the doghouse; we were informed that a beer that is not part of a dinner is taboo, and any drinking on any day that we stay in a church for the evening is also taboo. Enforcement could prove interesting, considering one can actually get non-alcoholic beverages and food in nearly every bar in Montana and most other states. Enuf said.

July 8 Rest Day in Great Falls, MT 0 miles

2008-07-08T15:32:00.000-07:00

This is where we are staying in Great Falls.

For a thrill, bikers can descend the fire escape from their 4th floor garrotes.

This was our room

Nancy, Bill F., Eli and KC:

The local TV station came out to shoot a piece on our tour group:

Nancy, the tour organizer/planner, answering questions from the seat of her recumbent.

Staging the shot. Everyone likes to help. George, on the left, had a million fascinating stories, and I think that they were mostly true. Who cares, he wasn't a bit boring. Characters like George keep the trip interesting.

I've had a worsening click in my right pedal, so I've replaced it today. We toured the Lewis and Clark Interpretative Center today. While many of us have read a lot about their Journey of Discovery, a visit is always informative. We had lunch at Bert & Ernie's in downtown Great Falls, then back to the center to sort out what to keep and what to send home.

Before leaving, I packed a supplemental bag with additional bike parts and clothing that might be needed. This was a great opportunity to make adjustments after 3 weeks of riding. My view is to take the minimum, as dragging a lot of kit in and out of each night's lodgings is a burden. The more stuff, the harder to find the stuff that you want or need.

I prefer packing items in gallon zip-lock bags, then sit on the bags and close. You can see what is in each bag and they take less space. However, just as bike ires leak a little air each day, these bags expand each day, so you have to regularly sit on them to keep them compressed. Still, it's the best solution that I've found.

By now, everyone is getting over many of their adjustment aches and pangs, and we have had no major injuries.

July 7 Choteau to Great Falls, MT 55 miles

2008-07-08T15:04:00.000-07:00

Leaving Choteau, that's the Choteau courthouse, with Jon L at the side of the road.

Arriving in Great Falls, the Missouri River is getting pretty big.

After crosssing the Missouri River into downtown Great Falls, this sign warns us about a 12-foot long downgrade. Not sure if it's for run-away wheelchairs or bikes.

After the mountains, this warning seemed a bit silly. Perhaps someone lost control and threatened to sue.

Today was a fairly flat ride with predominate side or tail winds. The first 20 miles took 2 hours as be repeatedly fixed Marlene's rear tire. She will put on a new one in Great Falls. Lunch was at 42 miles before we rode an I-15 frontage road into Great Falls.

We are staying 2 nights at the Ursaline Center, a former nunnery, school, and now general community center. Nancy, KC, and Eli arrived within 20 minutes of our arrival. We ended up with a 1st floor room that was convenient for the dogs and just a little larger. However, with four of us in a double bed, it didn't seem much larger.

Great to see Nancy after 3 weeks. Her task is much harder, as we just get up and follow the same routine. We have the cohesion of a group, while she has to cope without much help.

Only two nuns remain of the original order in Great Falls, so Nancy is off on her 2nd therapy animal visit with one of the nuns. I've been fixing a defective pedal on the bike, washing clothes, and catching up on e-mail and bills.

Unfortunately, I may lose the first week of photos, as a memory card seems to be defective. I have all of the photos since Spokane, but not before unless they can be recovered from the card.

We resume riding on Wednesday, with 3 more nights in Montana.

July 6 Valier to Choteau, MT, 61 miles

2008-07-06T15:20:00.000-07:00

On arriving in Choteau, this seemed to be a great name for this store:

My total mileage is 937 miles. I include all miles ridden, not just the town-to-town portion.

I recommend two other blogs, done by people who seem to be getting more photos posted. Nancy W, a ride director, has been creating this blog:
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/baa2008

Solomon has been creating this one:
(will add later)

http://mybiketrek.blogspot.com/

Marlene has been doing this blog:

http://marforhabitat.blogspot.com/

I have been updating, and when photos appear, you might like to re-read prior posts.

We had a tail wind for 14 miles, then about 20 miles of head wind, the side winds for the rest. We have just missed the major July 4th celebration here. We are in the Best Western, where I am updating days of blogs and spell checking the earlier posts. I'll see Nancy in Great Falls tomorrow, and perhaps I can get some of the photos posted.

So far, I'm feeling good. I have the usual shoulder and lower back aches, but I'm doing nightly exercises and stopping during the day to stretch. So far, no serious saddle sores, but removing bike shorts at the end of each day is a major focus. Prevention is vital; overcoming saddle sores when you ride daily is difficult.

Overall, we have been incredibly lucky with the weather and winds. Skykomish Pass had rain and snow the day after we rode through. Going to the Sun was dark and overcast as we departed the Park on July 5. The longest day was a strong tail wind. We will get heat, but every good weather day is a day to be relished.

July 5 Rising Sun Lodge to Valier, MT 81 miles

2008-07-06T15:11:00.000-07:00

This was billed as one of the most difficult and boring days. Our good luck continued; due to cool temps and strong tail winds, it was one of the easier days.

We began with a gentle downhill and a few climbs our of the east side of Glacier NP. These are two views looking back at Glacier National Park. Note how the clouds are gathering, meaning that 1 day later, we would have been riding in clouds, cold temperatures, rain, and likely some snow.

Then from St Mary's, we had a 7 mile climb of 7 percent, but much of was cool and there were easier sections. We then rode through the Crow Reservation, which was largely grasslands.

The highlight was being followed along for a mile by a small herd of 5 beautiful horses. Eventually, the curled around the hill out of sight.

Constructed from car parts, announcing the beginning of the Crow Reservation

After the reservation and going through Browning, MT, a town with a poor reputation (seemed overstated), we rode through Hutterite farms. They were immaculate, huge, and obviously well run.

We had a strong tail wind for much of the day, making this a pretty easy day. This was pretty typical of the terrain.

Valier was quite small, and mostly closed. Jon and I ate lunch at the local cafe, having gotten ahead of the lunch stop at the sag vehicle. We have been seeing many Airstream trailers and motor homes, returning from the Wally Bynum gathering in Bozeman.

July 4 Lake McDonald to Rising Sun vis Going to the Sun Road 34 miles

2008-07-06T14:59:00.000-07:00

Everyone had a great ride. The temp was 55 F, and Going to the Sun road was quiet. My only issue was filling my memory card on the camera about 2/3 of the way up, so I stopped and deleted 30 photos to make room. Carry an extra card!

Looking back west as the sun rises in the east over the Pass.

The cirque below the Pass.

The west side was carved by several glaciers. The upper valley is separated from the lower, hence the waterfall.

I like taking a photo of my bike beside the "No Bikes" sign. Actually, I was there before 11 am.

Being a wet spring, and with a lot of snow still to melt, there was water falling everywhere.

Now about 2/3 of the way up, this is the view to the west, down the valley.

The famous Weeping Wall was gushing.

Getting closer . . .

. . . and closer—perhaps a mile below the top of the Pass.

At the top. Actually, this climb is not that difficult, as the grade is steady, and most of us stop repeatedly to take pictures.

Unlike my prior ride up the Pass which was in rain, then snow, then heavy, cold rain, this was great. We could linger at the top, everything dried, and we coasted leisurely down the east side. Several hikers were carrying their skis up this snow field, preparing to ski back down.

Mountain goat relaxing at the top.

While Going to the Sun Road had just opened the prior day, this was the closest snow was to the road. Much of the maintenance was to remove rock falls, not just snow.

This "notch" was on the east side, about 100 yards from the road.

We arrived about 12:30 at the Lodge, so I asked if any of the rooms were ready (cleaned). This is our initial, assigned cabin, but they all looked alike. The manager checked, said yes, and gave me a key. All was well, about 6-8 people in our group checked in, and then we were ordered to vacate our rooms and turn in keys as we were not authorized to check in without the tour leaders. After much gnashing of teeth and stumbling around, things were sorted. My shoes were dropped in the hurried transfer, but fortunately and ironically, Shoeless Jim C found them.

On the way up, we were stopped with the cars at a traffic light controlling one-lane traffic. I talked to the Red-Bus drivers, who were also stopped. I asked what were the most unusual questions that they remembered:

# 1: Do the deer become elk when they get to high altitude?

# 2: When viewing the 3-arches bridge constructed on the Going to the Sun road, "Is it natural?"

July 3 Whitefish to Lake McDonald Lodge 42 miles

2008-07-06T14:52:00.000-07:00

Bikes can't be on the main roads in Glacier Nat's Park between 11 am and 4 pm, so we had to wait in Whitefish. I opted to explore Whitefish, then update this blog at the library, when it opened at 12 noon.

I rode with Jim C today. Columbia Falls, (Darrel C's home in grade school, is mostly on the main highway, but we missed the turn to the older section. Instead, Jim lead me to a TT (tourist trap) for huckleberries. Inferior lunch stop!

I'm not sure why Hungry Horse felt obligated to modify "Best" to "Blest", perhaps the evangelicals won the election.

The road along side Lake McDonald.

Lake McDonald

We rode on up to the Lodge and ate an uneventful dinner at the lodge diner. Dinner was followed by the usual meeting to discuss the next day's ride, standing outside the cabins swatting black flies and mosquito's.